What is Kamakura?
It is hard to believe that between 1185 and 1333 this small, sleepy provincial town nestled in deep valleys and poke marked by temples was once the center of power in Japan. The Kamakura jidai 鎌倉時代 (Kamakura Period) began with the establishment in 1192 of the Kamakura bakufu by the first Kamakura shogun, Minamoto no Yorimoto. Indeed, during the earlier Heian period (794 – 1185) Kamakura was already the predominant city of the Kanto region. Surrounded on three sides by mountains and Sagami Bay on the other, Kamakura is a natural fortress.
The Kamakura Period saw the transition to the Japanese “medieval” age in which the bushi class effectively ran the state and oversaw the civil, military and judicial proceedings: the emperor, his court and the central government being largely relegated to ceremonial functions.
It was a land-based, feudal economy. Public power was held by landowners, served by loyal vassals who were rewarded by fiefdoms of their own; the whole system being underpinned by an advanced military presence whose technologies were concentrated in the hands of a specialized fighting class.
The Kamakura Period ended in 1333 with the defeat of the shogunate and the imposition of imperial rule under Emperor Go-Daigo by Ashikaga Takauji, Nitta Yoshisada and Kusonoki Masashige.
Why go to Kamakura?
Kamakura is steeped in history and culture, and is one of the most popular and fascinating day-trips out of Tokyo. Well-stocked with restaurants and other tourist-oriented amenities, Kamakura has many different attractions. There are literally dozens of shrines and magnificent Zen temples, pleasant walks, lots of tasty eateries, a long beach, plenty of souvenir shops, and many different things to see. Kamakura’s piece de resistance, though, is the Great Buddha (Daibutsu 大仏), a must-see for anyone visiting the Tokyo area.
How to get there.
The quickest way in is by the JR Yokosuka Line from Yokohama or Tokyo Station (about 55 minutes, ¥890 one way). The JR Kamakura- Enoshima Free Kippu (¥1,110 from Yokohama, ¥1970 from Tokyo) will provide you with a return trip to Kamakura (local trains only) plus unrestricted use of the Enoden and Shonan Monorail lines.
Alternatively, a cheaper route can be taken with the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku to Fujisawa, then change to the two-carriage, half-train/ half-tram (streetcar) Enoden Line which takes longer (about one and a half hours in total) but the ride on the Enoden is a joy in itself as it winds and rattles its way through the tight, little streets and gives you a glimpse of Enoshima island and the ocean into the bargain. The Enoshima-Kamakura Free Pass (¥1,430) buys you a return trip from Shinjuku and unlimited use of the Enoden Line for one day.
Getting around
Kamakura covers too big an area to walk around but a good selection of buses departs from the train station.
Things to see
Kamakura’s sights are spread out around the city. The Great Buddha is the most popular attraction with many sightseers stopping off at Hase Kannon on the way in. Many of the sights can get really busy on holidays and at weekends but if you can manage to go during the week, you’ll be able to avoid the big crowds and get more peace and quiet.
Central Kamakura
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine. The largest Shinto shrine in Kamakura, built by Yorimoto Minamoto (1147-1199-see above). Just north of Kamakura station, this shrine attracts a million visitors on New Year’s Day to see the first sunrise of the year (JR runs trains all night long). Twice a year (spring and autumn) at Hachiman-gu there are demonstrations of archery from galloping horseback in full Samurai regalia (Yabusame).
Myohonji Temple. The cemetery contains the grave of Eiji Tsuburaya, the creator of Ultraman, a popular 1960s TV show. Fans who visit the grave place toy Ultraman action figures on his grave (each to his own, I suppose).
Western Kamakura (Hase)
The following are all near the Enoden Hase station.
Kotokuin. Home of the Great Buddha. Here’s where you can see the “big fella” himself; a 13.35m. high bronze statue of Amida, the second largest in Japan (the largest being Nara’s Todaji). It weighs about 93 tonnes. Cast in about 1252, the statue used to be surrounded by a temple, but this was destroyed by a tsunami (tidal wave) in 1498. In 1960-61 the neck was reinforced and measures have been taken to protect the Daibutsu from earthquakes. The entry fee to the temple grounds is ¥200. The statue is hollow and a further ¥20 will get you inside it. Open from 7 am to 5.30 pm daily.
Hasedera 長谷寺. (or Hase Kannon). Contains the largest wooden statue in Japan, representing Kannon, a Buddhist deity. ¥300 entry. The primary image in Hasadera is that of the Juichimen Kanzeon Bosatsu (11 headed Goddess Kannon), said to be one to two Kannon carved from a Camphor tree discovered by the monk Tokudou in 721. The bottom Kannon was enshrined in Hasedera, Yamato (Nara Prefecture) while the top Kannon was cast into the sea with prayers that it would reach the land where it had a Karmic 
connection to save sentient beings. It is said to have landed at Nagai, on the other-side of kamakura, in 736. The wooden image was transfered here where it was enshrined as the central image for a new temple called Tokudou. In 1342 the first Muromachi shogun, Ashikaga Takauji, had the statue gilded and in 1392 Ashikaga Yoshimitsu had the halo added. Photography of the actual statue is prohibited, but postcards are available, as well as images on the temple’s Website. Hasedara is also the site of Jizo-Dou where many small Jizo figures are laid to comfort the souls of unfortunate unborn children. Close by is the Kyozou (sutra archives) where rotating bookracks called Rinzo are kept. It is said that by rotating the rinzo, one can earn the same merit as by reading all the sutras.
Zeniarai Benten Shrine. Dedicated to the deity Benzaiten, according to legend, any money (zeni) washed (arai) in the cave here will be doubled. Quite far from the station, it’ll take either a bus or taxi ride or a long hike to get there.
Northern Kamakura
These temples are all near JR Kita-Kamakura station
Engakuji. Number two of Kamakura’s Five Zen Temples, founded in 1282 to commemorate soldiers who died fighting off the Mongol invasion the previous year. Next to the temple bell there is a teahouse famous for tororoten (sweet cold noodles) but they’re salty and slimy and may not be for western palates.
Kenchoji. Number one of Kamakura’s Fine Zen Temples, the oldest in Kamakura, built in 1253, and one of the oldest in Japan. The temple bell has been designated a National Treasure, and there’s also a Zen garden.
Tokeiji. Also called Kakekomidera (fugitive temple),this is a nunnery famous in feudal times for sheltering abused women who, after staying for three years could be granted a divorce. It’s renowned for its ajisai (hydrangeas) and its large, atmospheric graveyard.
Eastern Kamakura
The temples in this area are not so easy to access on foot as there’s a fair bit of climbing to do. It’s advisable to catch a bus.
Jomyoji. Reasonably priced tea ceremony here at ¥500 for a cup of matcha tea in the gardens.
Sugimotodera. Oldest temple in Kamakura (743) with an eleven- faced (count ‘em) statue of Kannon. On a peaceful hillside with good views of the town.
Shakado Kiritoshi. Fifteen minutes’ walk from Sugimoto Kannon. Very narrow roads were cut through the mountains, Shakado Kiritoshi (pass) is cut through solid rock and still looks impressive today.
Hokokuji. Pretty bamboo grove. Matcha served here too.
Other things to do
Beaches
As well as being a cultural hotspot, Kamakura is also a seaside resort and there are some pleasant beaches where you can frolic on the sand, take a stroll, play beach-volleyball, build a sandcastle or just get sunburnt! (Don’t forget that “Factor 30”, pasty face!)
Yuigahama. Popular beach in summer. You can bathe in the sea. Good spot to watch the Kamakura firework display in summer.
Inamuragasaki. Another famous beach, well-known for its sunsets.
The film “Inamura Jane”, directed by Keisuke Kuwata, was set here.
Shichirigahama. Not for swimmers (not allowed),but good for surfing, so very with the beach-bums, then.
Things to buy
Hatosabure. This is a biscuit shaped like a pigeon. A very popular omiyage (souvenir) among the Japanese, you can buy it right next to Kamakura station.
Among lots of other souvenirs, you can combine good taste with bad by purchasing a packet of Giant Buddha shaped pastries stuffed with red bean paste, sold around Kotokuin.
Things to eat
There are lots of tasty comestibles to be sampled in the vicinity of Kamakura station. For a snack, try murusaki-imo sofuto (purple potato soft ice-cream) which tastes much better than it looks or sounds.
In Komachi-dori there is a shop where you can toast your own o-senbei (rice cracker). One costs about ¥200.
Nearby
Enoshima
Just 10 km. at the other end of the Enoden Line. A beach resort and a surfer scene with a scenic island to explore. It’s advisable to avoid on weekends as it can get overly crowded.
