Where to stay.
Nikko Park Lodge is certainly the most interesting and best value place to stay in Nikko. Twin bed with shower and toilet is Y3990 and the rooms are comfortable, clean and very affordable at this price. The Japanese owners, Ken and his partner, a Buddhist Monk, are both fluent in English. Ken spent many years in America and returned to Japan to renovate the Lodge, originally a themed company style lodge built in the extravagance of the eighties bubble economy. The Lodge has a large common room used for meals, tea, gathering around in by the guests (mostly English speaking tourists) and use of the free internet. Ken can pick guests up from the train when he has sufficient time. When the 
Buddhist Monk is in residence there are free yoga classes in the morning. The lodge offers special ‘Zen’ dinners a.k.a. traditional Buddhist vegetarian meal (but you’ll need to order in advance) which are excellent value for money as well as a soulful experience. The Lodge in not within the Nikko ‘city’ boundary but a short walk across the river. It takes about twenty to twenty five minutes to walk from the Lodge through the town and up to the National park area. Smile and Ken might give you a lift up there in his huge totally environmentally unfriendly but much loved giant Chevrolet utility. Contact Nikko Park Lodge: 0228 53-1201 or fax; 228 53-4332. Or visit the web site and book online.
Alternately there is the Oyado Shinkyo Konishi which likes to advertise itself as very close to the famous Shinkyo bridge and ONLY 10minute from Nikko Station on foot (which it is, more or less). All guest rooms are furnished in the 'private Japanese style' about half of them are en-suite, the others are only with toilet. Bathing tax (hot spring tax) is not included in the room fee. 150yen per person per night and good value. Food at the Oyado Shinkyo Konishi is far more expensive (Y4000 for dinner, order at least two days in advance) and although authentic Japanese, it is hard to beat the Zen dinner offered at the Lodge. During autumn both the Lodge at Oyada can be heavily booked.
So what’s so good about Nikko?
Apart from the undeniable beauty of the natural environment and splendor of the architecture Nikko gives a fundamental insight into the nature of contemporary Japanese culture, with all its inconsistencies and seemingly impenetrable social ritual. Nikko is unique among spiritual beliefs in honoring the gods of Shinto (Japan’s indigenous shamanistic religion) and Buddhism introduced from abroad in the 6th century. This religion, combining Shintoism and Buddhism, is known as Shimbutsu Shugo, the unification of kami and buddhas and boddhisatvas.
While the marriage is extremely complex in terms of necessary additional mythology many have noted that practically Shimbutsu Shugo boils down to this: For materials blessing, such as a new car, Louis Vuitton bag, good test results, one prays to the Shinto gods while for afterlife related matters one turns to Buddhism. Luckily Buddhism is represented in the form of Shinto gods called Gongen. Therefore Shimbutsu Shugo manages to reconcile Shintoism and Buddhism.
Given the massive contradictions evident in modern Japanese society you might be sensing something uniquely Japanese about the compromise in this arranged marriage and perhaps nowhere else in the world are two religions worshipped simultaneously as they are in Nikko. Take some time to understand Shimbutsu Shugo while in Nikko. Or you can jump to the easy version.
SHINTO - Literally "The Way of the Gods." Japan's indigenous folk religion can be traced back to at least the Yayoi period (300 BC). SHIN, also pronounced KAMI, is the generic term for god, goddess, divine spirit, and various demonic and semi-benevolent nature spirits. The second character, TO, means road, path, or way. Shintoism teaches that mountains, rocks, echoes in the forest and all natural things are gods, and that the Emperor of Japan is descended from the Sun god Amtrerasu Omikami and thus a living god. While in Nikko, it is not hard to sense the awe of nature in the mountains and towering trees and easy to understand the feelings and beliefs that arose in pre-history.
You’ll notice outside the shrines and temples worshippers and casual visitors are asked to purify themselves (Harai ) of impurity. The act of cleansing is called Misogi, and the actual washing of hands and mouth with water is called Temizu (it is not so usual to wash the mouth these days). The Shinto elements that provide purification are water, salt, fire, sand and sake (rice wine). An associated term to Temizu is the important concept of Imi, which means "avoidance." Shinto abhors impurity, and thus all impurity should be avoided -- "imi" is the name given to all things to avoid. In Shinto, the period of mourning following death is also referred to as "imi." Imikotoba literally means "words to be avoided." In Shintoism the divinity of the Japanese emperor and therefore ultimately the Japanese people is still held central. Given the Shinto abhorrence to impurity the early kernel of Japanese xenophobia becomes apparent.
Beginning in the sixth century Buddhist beliefs started to arrive in Japan. Not only did Buddhism have a coherent philosophical basis but was also more technologically advanced, relying more on Sutra (written scrolls) conveying information. When Buddhism arrived on Japanese shores it had the resources to impress the ruling class but for common people the religion was too complex. One important concept of Buddhism was "transmigration," more commonly known in the West as "reincarnation." It holds that all living things die and are reborn again. Your rebirth into the next life will be based on your behavior in your past life. This rebirth occurs again and again. When Buddhism emerged in India around 500 BC, it too stressed this Hindu belief in transmigration, one that still plays a major role in modern Buddhist philosophy. The modern Buddhist concept of Karma is also a byproduct of ancient Hindu beliefs in transmigration and reincarnation. The Japanese formed a connection between Shintoism and Buddhism by considering Buddha as a Kami and by the eighth century these Shinto Kami were included in Buddhist Temples as protectors of the Buddha(s). Nikko played a pivotal role in developing this connection we now call Shimbutsu Shugo.
Shimbutsu Shugo The easy version.
Early Shintoism was popular amongst the common people as it provided an easy paradigm to understand the world in pre-modern times. Kami existed in both the social and natural world and were national ancestors, traceable to Japans creation, as was the Emperor. Shintoism supports the ideology of self-effacement for the good of the whole. Buddhism on the other hand addresses the individual needs of the people, giving the opportunity for individuals to face nature, and discover his/her own true nature. Shintoism served the collective needs of the people, stressing the social group and was less personally demanding while Buddhism allowed personal advancement but required taking responsibility. The assimilation of Shinto and Buddhism furnished Yugen (the mystery of nature) and set art as the spirit of nature to flow through the artist in ink paintings, bonsai, and the art of tea: simple, rustic, mysterious and with no artificial impediments (purity). The duality of Shimbutsu Shugo allowed social control of the populace and simultaneously legitimized and insulated a small ruling class.
Things to do and see in Nikko Sannai
Shinkyo 神橋 (sacred bridge) used to be known as 'Yamasuge no Jabashi' (bridge of Snakes and Wild Sedges) after the legend concerning the priest Shodo Shonin when trying to explore the Nikko mountain area in 767 with ten disciples. The party was halted at the gorge and sat to pray. The God Jinja Daio appeared carrying two snakes which he threw across the river to make a bridge. The snakes grew wild sedges so that Shonin wouldn't fall off. Actually this bridge was originally built in 1636.
Rinno Ji Temple輪王寺, Sambutsudo. Sambustu-do (Hall of the Three buddhas) is the main hall of Rinno-Ji Temple and the biggest single structure at Mt. Nikko. All three buddhas are considered the transubstantiations of Mt. Nikko and rare examples of fusion of Shinto and Buddhism. The statues are: Bato-Kannon (horse head) eater of mankind's trials and tribulations, Senji-Kannon (1002 arms and legs) another of mankind's savior and Amida Nyorai (One of the highest saviors).
Go-Ju-no To (five story Pagoda) was developed in China based on the Indian Stupa; a round domed building holding the remains of Buddha. The first four levels are built in the Wayo (Japanese) style and the upper most tier in the Karayo (Chinese) style. All five tiers are of equal dimensions so that snow does not accumulate, fall off in one big slab and drop on someone's head. The building has a central column made from the truck of a cedar tress that absorbs earthquake shocks and has allowed the wooded structure to survive over the centuries. The Pagoda was purposely decorated in rich, vibrant colors in order to contrast it with the dark green Sugi (Cedars) behind. This style of decoration is common in Nikko but rare in other centers and offers a refreshing contrast to the contemporary fascination with gray colors.
Climbing the stairs to the Toshogu Shrine 東照宮 complex you pass through the Omote-mon (front gate) guarded by two Koma-inu (shrine dogs) and two Nio (Devas). The gate itself has 66 other carvings of note, both large and small. Koma-inu are usually used in Shinto Shrines and Nio statues are usually in Buddhist Temples. the combination in this eight legged gate Symbolizes the fusion of Buddhism and Shintoism.
The three red buildings on the right are collectively known as the San Jinko. These remarkable building house the temple costumes and relics. The walls are formed of triangular cross beams that expand with heat or contract with humidity leaving the building either cooled or sealed against the elements. Of special interest on the upper building are carvings of elephants, an animal never seen in Japan and reproduced from narrative only.
To the left of the Omote-mon is Shinjyu-sha (sacred stable) where the sacred horse is kept in luxury between ceremonies and Shrine duties. Cunningly this magnificent horse, like its predecessor, is donated by the New Zealand people. The Stable is decorated with carvings of monkeys because these animals were thought to be guardians of horses.
Among the eight monkey carvings is the famous 'hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil' panel. In fact, the monkey carvings represent a set of values held ideal at the time, which were to avoid ambition and shun quarrels and strife. This panel was actually advice to parents about what young children should NOT see from older people (normative parental code).
Friends should help and console each other in failure. Failure should not be feared since 'every cloud has a silver lining'.
The message in this panel is 'No matter how high a position one achieves, there is always a higher. Since ambition has no limits it should always be kept within reasonable bounds. In fact ambition was severely frowned upon both during the Heian period (794 – 1185) and the Kamakura period, effectively securing social cohesion and preventing revolts against the feudal system.
There are 121 toro (lanterns) in the precincts of Toshogu Shrine, all of which are lit at special ceremonies and events. All of the lanterns have been 'donated' with the most important people or families' located nearest to the center of the complex. Interestingly some of the Lanterns are of foreign design and even imported, notably the nine sided Dutch copper lantern imported in 1634. It is four meters tall and rotates about its vertical axis. The aoi (hollyhock) crests on the top (the crest of the Tokugawa and the House of Tokugawa) are upside-down.
A Shoro or belfry is a place where a shrine or temple bell is hung while a Koro is where a taiko (Big Drum) is placed. Traditionally,Toshogu festivals always start with sound of taiko and finishes with the sound of bells. Due to the effects of age the shoro and koro at Toshogu are no longer used.
Yomei-Mon 陽明門. Walking between the Toro and Shoro, you climb the steps towards the Yomei-Mon. This the most important structure at Toshogu Shrine, was crafted by more than 130,000 men on an unlimited budget. During the Edo period common people were not permitted to pass through the gate. The gate is also known as Higurashi-Mon (Sunset gate) because it's extreme beauty caused people to gaze upon the gate from dawn to sunset unaware of the passage of time. There are innumerable wooden carved panels of particular interest and you are strongly advised to buy a specialist book on this building before visiting Nikko. (Must-See In Nikko, JTB press, 7th ed., 2005.)
Nemuri Neko (sleeping cat). One of many masterpieces created during the Edo period by Hidari Jingoro. Since cats are uncommon in Shrine architecture 3 theories exist as to its significance. Firstly that nothing impure is inside the gate, Secondly asking the Zen question "which is more appealing, the peonies or the sleeping cat?" or thirdly that the cat sleeping amongst the warn peonies represents sunlight, nikko in Japanese.
Shin'yosha. Turning left upon entering the upper compound through Yomei-mon is a small building that houses the three Mikoshi (portable Shrines) of Minamoto-no-Yoritomo (1147-1199), Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598) and Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616). The mikoshi are dedicated to the fame and fortune of the house of Tokugawa and are used in the shrine's spring and summer taisai (grand festivals). By carrying the mikoshi the locality evil spirits are driven away and the area receives good fortune.
Okusha. At the far end of the shrine complex the Okusha consists of a gate known as Iniku-Mon and the Hoto. The remains of Tokugawa Ieyasu lay inside the Hoto, a simple cast bronze pagoda. In keeping with Buddhist beliefs the Hoto is accompanied by three items collectively called the Mistugosoko: Kabin (flower vase) Koro (incense burner) and Shokudai (candle stand).
Rinno-Ji and Toshogu are but two of the ten important sites to visit in Nikko and at least two or three days are advisable to explore the history and modern implications they hold. Just outside of the Nikko Sanna area is Oku-Nikko and Lake Chuzenji, famous waterfalls and ideal for bathing with other apes (other than homo sapiens). To get the most out of visiting Nikko a guide book is highly recommended.
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